What to do in Fes

1. What to do in the city

**The medina of Fes el-Bali.** The medina, founded in the 9th century, has been on UNESCO's World Heritage List since 1981. You enter through the Blue Gate, Bab Bou Jeloud, decorated with blue mosaic on the outside and green on the inside. Its lanes do not follow a regular plan: Talaa Kebira, the main artery, runs through the medina, and the souks are organised by trade around it.

**The madrasas.** The Bou Inania madrasa, built in the 14th century under the Marinids, is one of the finest Quranic schools in the city: courtyard, carved stucco and cedar wood. The Attarine madrasa, from the same century, near the Quaraouiyine mosque, shows the same mosaic and plaster work. These two schools can be visited, unlike mosques, whose entry is reserved for Muslims.

**The Quaraouiyine mosque and university.** Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, the Quaraouiyine is recognised by UNESCO as one of the oldest teaching institutions still in operation. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall, but they can glimpse the courtyard from the doorways.

**The Chouara tanneries.** The stone dye pits, seen from the terraces around them, are the best-known image of Fes. Leather is treated there by old methods, with natural dyes. The smell is strong: the terraces of the neighbouring leather shops sometimes hand out sprigs of mint.

**The souks and workshops.** The Attarine souk sells spices and plants, the Seffarine quarter rings with copper work, and pottery, wood and weaving workshops are found throughout the medina. Watching a craftsperson work is often worth more than a hurried purchase: each quarter has its trade.

**Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah.** Fes el-Jdid, the 13th-century town, holds the golden gates of the Royal Palace, seen from outside only, as the palace is not open to visitors. Opposite it, the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, keeps its open balconies and the Ibn Danan synagogue, restored in the 17th century.

**Museums and gardens.** The Dar Batha museum, housed in a 19th-century Hispano-Moorish palace, shows Fes blue ceramics, wood, embroidery and textiles. The Jnan Sbil garden, between the medina and Fes el-Jdid, offers paths, fountains and shaded benches. To the north, the Borj Nord fort, from the 16th century, holds an arms museum and gives a wide view over the medina.

2. Seasonal notes

Fes is an inland city, between the Rif and the Middle Atlas mountains. Summers are hot and dry, winter nights cold. Spring and autumn are the mildest seasons for long walks in the medina, which demands a great deal of walking and has little shade in some lanes.

In summer, it is better to start early, rest during the hottest hours and resume late in the day. In winter, bring a warm layer for the evening, especially in riads with thick, little-heated walls. No festival date is given here: events change from year to year and should be checked before travelling.

3. Practical notes

This page gives general information. It sells nothing and verifies no place, no guide and no opening hours.

• **Take a guide the first time.** The medina is a maze. A licensed guide, booked through your riad or at a gate, saves time on the first day and avoids unofficial guides.
• **Respect places of prayer.** Do not enter a mosque if you are not Muslim, speak quietly near Quranic schools, and ask before photographing people.
• **Bargain calmly.** In the souks, bargaining is part of the exchange. Set your limit price before going in, and be ready to walk away if the price does not suit you.
• **Check before you go.** No opening hours or entry prices are given here: they change, and the sources consulted do not agree. Check on the spot or with your accommodation before setting out.
• **Bring water and walking shoes.** The medina is walked uphill and downhill, and fountains do not replace a bottle of water.