1. What to do in the city
**The medina.** Start at the Bab Lamrissa gate, one of the oldest and largest gates in the country, which once opened towards the sea. From there, enter the medina through its narrow lanes. The souks sell everyday goods, cloth, spices and crafts, with less commercial pressure than in the big tourist medinas. The Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, stands near the main gate. Souk Laghzel square, the old auction square, is part of the old city's trading heart.
**The Great Mosque and the medersa.** The Great Mosque of Salé, also called Masjid al-Tal'a, dominates the medina. It dates from the Almohad period, in the 12th century, and ranks among the largest mosques in the country. Non-Muslims cannot enter: admire it from outside, with its minaret and the square around it. A few steps away, the Abou el Hassan Medersa, a 14th-century Marinid Koranic school, is a fine example of traditional architecture, with its tiles and carved plaster.
**Mausoleums and ramparts.** Near the Great Mosque stands the mausoleum of Sidi Abdellah ben Hassoun, the city's patron saint, who died in Salé in 1604. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but open doors sometimes offer a glimpse inside. North-west of the medina, near the sea, the white mausoleum of Sidi Ahmed ben Achir overlooks the cemetery, the rocks and the ocean. On the ramparts, Borj Adoumoue, or the Bastion of Tears, a former fort and prison, now a museum, looks over the mouth of the Bouregreg.
**Pottery.** Salé has been known for centuries for its ceramics. The pottery workshops of the Oulja district, in the city, show the work of clay, from firing to painting. This is a living craft, not a reconstruction: pieces made on the spot are sold there.
**The river and the sea.** At the mouth of the Bouregreg, the Salé marina offers a waterside walk, with views of the Hassan Tower and the Kasbah of the Oudayas on the far bank. The city beach, north of the river mouth, is a public sandy beach used by families and sports players. The Sidi Moussa corniche, along the Atlantic coast, is lined with cafés and small restaurants. North of the beach, a small fishing port marks the end of the walk.